|

Click for Directions to our office
Click here for Current Projects
Click here for Recently
Finished Projects
Click here to see
"Our Design Tips"
&
"Consultation Meeting"
Requirements

| |
|
Frequently asked questions
|
|
Here we will do
our best to answer all your questions about various aspects of our
companies services, processes and fees, as well as other questions we
might find the answers helpful for you.
|
-
What do you need in order to help us start our
design process or to help us in changing some plan ideas?
-
How much will it cost to design the plans for
our new home?
-
What if we want to make changes during the
design of our new home?
|
|
Answer #1
We encourage our clients to sketch out their ideal floor plans
and ideas in any manner they see fit. We will take those ideas and, if
necessary, sketch them into floor plans prior to putting them into CAD.
Many times if we are provided enough information and detail, we can
start with the computer generated drawings much sooner.
Any
pictures, or parts of homes you have seen that interest you, can easily
be sketched, even in the roughest of forms in order for us to have a
good starting point.
(See "Our Design
Tips") Click here or on
left of all pages Or, if it is more comfortable, you may set up a meeting with us and we will work together on the sketches, and develop the plans as we go along through the initial design process.
(Back to FAQ List) |
|
Answer #2
The cost of each design will vary based mostly on size, but also
exterior style, number of floors, location and City or State, (some
areas require more information and work than others) as well as if there
are extensive changes that need to be made throughout the design
process. Since we specialize more in true custom tailored designs, we
have developed a very extensive and detailed pricing sheet that we can
send you upon request, or you may call us at anytime in order to get a
quote or rough estimate.
Most
Designs are based on a per square foot of home cost, with a couple
additional fees for various other areas and additional items that may be
needed.
If
the design starts with or is for any of the plans shown in our products
section, the pricing on these will vary differently and you should call
for a quote. Even though at this time there are only a few plans shown
on the site, we are working continually to add more plans of various
design styles and sizes.
(Back to FAQ List)
|
Answer #3
There are certain known changes and revisions that will be necessary in
order to design your plan and tailor it to meet your specific needs and
living style. Many of these changes so to speak are built into the
initial cost of the plan estimate, as it is rare that any design turns
out exactly as one would wish on the first or second draft. With this in
mind, we try to figure there will be 2 rounds of review/ draft plan
minor revisions, then we will go on to the exterior views. The exterior
views are treated in the same fashion, with 2 rounds of minor revisions
prior to the final plans. The final plans will be produced once you have
agreed to and signed off on the "preliminary design". (preliminary and
final plan design differences discussed later in "Our plan process")
Keep in mind, the minor revisions will
only go so far, if they become extensive or there is a request to make
several additional rounds of changes for whatever reason, there will be
some additional charges based on an hourly billing as explained in our
"Design Pricing Sheet".
(Back to FAQ List)
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Stock and Custom House Plans
consist of the following drawings:
(see our
Typical Drawings page)
Elevations:
Front elevation view will be drawn to 1/4" scale as well as Sides and
rear elevations. or sides and rear elevations can be provided at 1/8"
scale for a reasonable additional fee.
(It is actually easier to produce
all drawings in 1/4" format, or an entire drawing in 1/2 scale, 1/8" on
plans and 1/4" on details)
1/2 size drawings will be charged normal plan pricing with slightly
reduced printing costs.
Foundation:
Standard crawl space foundation plans are drawn with brick ledge symbol
exterior (for masonry veneer) in block or concrete as market or consumer
requires, at 1/4" scale. Foundation piers and footing placement are also
shown in detail. Foundation vents, crawl space opening, anchor bolts,
garage door and entry door openings will be shown and or noted
appropriately also as necessary and required. Floor joist sizes will be
noted and Girder locations will be provided. If a floor joist layout is
to be provided, it will be at a reasonable additional fee and shown on
separate sheets as construction drawings.
Standard Basement drawings are provided with either block or concrete
shown as listed above, including brick ledge locations as required for
masonry veneer locations, along with bearing posts and beams located.
L.V.L. beams can be sized, however, steel beams must be sized by
suppliers engineer or local certified engineer as many times a license
stamp is required for permits. It is recommended that the actual
manufacturers material supplier do proper engineering sizing on all beam
materials including L.V.L. as many manufacturers products vary slightly
in their structural capabilities.
NOTE:
All foundation plan drawings have exterior dimensioning to outer most
edge of wall with interiors showing structural items to center line and
framing to edge of stud or interior block or concrete. If the basement
is to be finished living space, their will be 2 separate plan sheets
provided, one for structural members and one for framing only. (their
will be additional fees for finished basement areas). Plumbing items
will be shown as rough-in locations on structural basement plan.
Joist and Girder Plan: Each
level of the floor plan will be drawn showing joist and girder
placements for proper structural alignment and enabling ease of
installation for plumbing and such items. If necessary, their may be a
separate sheet for these items for clarity of plans.
Main Level Floor Plans:
Drawn at 1/4" scale and providing
all room measurements and structural information needed for
construction, kitchen, laundry room and bathroom layouts are drawn to
scale for proper placement of cabinetry and appliances. All dimensioning
is done to outer edge of stud framing and center of openings on
exterior, and to each side edge of stud framing on interior. If it is
required, interior openings may be shown to edge or center line
depending on location and need for clarification.
Second or Other Level Floor Plan:
Drawn at 1/4" scale and providing the same measurements as lower level
and aligning all joist and studding. Aligning load bearing points to
distribute loads through to lower level bearing points or to footing.
All dimensioning properties are done in the same manner as the main
level.
Birds eye Roof Plan:
Drawn at 1/4" scale and showing roof pitch slopes of various areas. Roof
Framing plans like floor framing plans can be supplied at a reasonable
additional fee.
Ceiling Joist Plan: Ceiling
joist layout will be drawn to 1/4" scale providing placement and sizing,
load bearing points and dimensional lengths. These will be charged a
reasonable additional fee as again, the supplier is usually required to
verify and supply these items based on his stocked materials.
Rafter/Truss Plan:
Rafter layout will be drawn to
1/4" scale providing placement and sizing. These will be charged a
reasonable additional fee as again, the supplier is usually required to
verify and supply these items based on his stocked materials.
Detail Sheets:
Included detail sheets will show numerous standard methods of
construction including cut angles to comply with local requirements as
well as many normal or standard details involving many types of
construction methods used in today's framing and construction industry.
Kitchen, laundry room, special cabinetry items as well as bath cabinet
details will be shown on plans as to their size and location for ease of
estimating purposes and construction.
NOTE:
Additional cabinet, built-in and or closet detail elevations will only
be drawn as required and their will be reasonable additional fees
applied. This is due to the fact that most individuals and builders will
seek the guidance of a professional cabinet/ closet design and/ or
interior design individual from their local area or of their choice to
do the details based on the actual materials they supply.
HVAC:
Due to building code variations and contractor preferences these plans
will not be provided by Holley & Associates, however, they should be
provided by the manufacturers supplier based on structure size and
geographical area requirements. We will provide the HVAC locations to
the best of our ability based on floor plan layout and/ or chase
requirements and locations.
Electrical Layout:
This page will be drawn for suggested electrical layout of lighting,
outlets and smoke detectors, based on minimum code requirements. There
will be a flat fee per floor for these items. We suggest the supplier
help with or supply the layout based on their standard pricing criteria,
and then can consult and communicate what is in addition to their
standard package pricing.
(Back to top) |
|
Get schooled on architectural home styles
By: Arrol Gellner
October 17, 2003
When it comes to identifying home styles, most people know
generic terms such as Victorian, Bungalow and Spanish. Really pegging
the thing is a little tougher, though. Although more precise terms like
Tudor, Mission and Craftsman are often casually thrown about—especially
by real estate agents, who ought to know better—they're used wrongly
more often than not.
Herewith are some of the most common points of confusion.
For starters, calling a house "Victorian" is like calling a car
"postwar"—it only describes what era the thing was built in. Luckily,
the four major styles of Victorians are easy to tell apart: If the house
has horizontal siding, false cornerstones and windows with segmental
arches, it's an Italianate. If it looks like an Italianate but also has
a steep mansard roof, it's a Mansard. If it has a square bay window,
skinny proportions, and a porch with lots of linear wooden gingerbread,
it's a Stick (also called Eastlake). If it has windows with colored
glass borders, a few curved walls or a turret, and a porch with lots of
decorative spindles, you can bet it's a Queen Anne. Next category,
please.
Bungalow is a generic term describing any home that's built
close to the ground and has a low-pitched roof. More precisely, if a
bungalow has wood siding or shingle (often with stone or clinker brick
trim), it's a Craftsman Bungalow. If it has stucco on the outside, it's
a California Bungalow.
The gaggle of labels hung on Spanish-style homes—Mission,
Spanish Colonial, Churrigueresque, Moorish, Mediterranean—is another
endless source of confusion. Strictly speaking, Mission refers only to
architecture modeled on the West's Spanish Colonial missions, and would
suggest a rather plain house with thick stucco walls, an Alamo-like
scrolled gable and a few decorative barrel tiles, if not a whole roof
full of them (for practical purposes, the term Spanish Colonial is
essentially synonymous with Mission).
On the other hand, tile-roofed houses with more
ornate features such as spiral columns and elaborate door and window
surrounds are called Churriguersque, after the 17th-century Spanish
Renaissance architect Jose Churriguera. Pointed or parabolic arches,
ceramic tile accents, and perhaps castle-like crenellation would be
clues that you were looking at a Moorish-style home. Of course, when in
doubt, you're always safe using the term Mediterranean, which has come
to include pretty much anything with red tile on the roof.
The terms Tudor, Elizabethan or Half-Timbered
are often used interchangeably to describe English-inspired homes, but
these terms don't mean the same thing. A Tudor-style house usually has
brickwork combined with restrained half-timbering, steep gables, a
massive and prominent chimney and relatively small windows sometimes
topped by a pointed Tudor arch. By contrast, an Elizabethan-style home
would have large areas of leaded windows divided into grids or into the
familiar "Olde English" diamond pattern, along with lots of florid
half-timbering in repeating motifs.
While both of the above examples might also be
called "Half-Timbered," that term more properly refers to a building
technique and not a style.
If you're wondering why I haven't mentioned any postwar home
styles, it's because it takes quite a bit of time for style names to
stabilize. Case in point: During the ‘60s, California Ranchers and split
levels were routinely called "Contemporaries," as if they were going to
stay in fashion forever. Today that term is all but forgotten.
Likewise, today's gewgaw-laden tract houses are often referred
to as "neo-traditional," but that term is so vague that it's unlikely to
survive.
Hence, it'll be a while before we know what posterity deems to
call them.
Copyright 2003 Arrol Gellner
(Back to top) | | |
|